Engine oil, What's the difference?


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Bought a new Petrol lawnmower today, it needs 10w30 motor oil.

I have 5 litres of 10w40 and 5 litres of 20w50? Can either be used?

Also its a 4 Stroke and I also bought 2 stroke oil thinking it was needed, I take it a 4 stroke does not need added oil in fuel?

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Mick the 10w40 will be fine, lawn mower motors are pretty basic and forgiving, don't use two stroke in the fuel though ! it'll smoke you out.

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I have a John Deere lawn mower and in the service book they say "use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes"

-20 degrees C to 50 degrees C use SAE 10W-40

-20 degrees C to 40 degrees C use SAE 10W-30

-22 degrees F to 86 degrees F use SAE 5W -30

Regardless of the temperature I have always used 10W-30 but I agree with banjo 10W-40 will be fine

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#3, thanks, about did my head in!

I like #2 #4, nice and simples.

Seem 20w40 will protect the engine as we never get temperatures of 40C!

Incidentally Fly2 it is a Wilco branded mower if anyone wants a cheap petrol mower they are reduced to fifty quid.

Ring around the stores to locate one, they will reserve.

See

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I wont be using the 20w50, but 10w40 as stated above should be ok?

Incidentally the generic DG350 engine on the Wilko mower is used in a number of brands of lawnmower.

Many retailers including Tesco and Mountfield sell this mower, re-badged for UKP150-160

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10W40 is fine Mick. The 10W is the 'winter' viscosity, i.e how thick/thin it is when cold (colder climates need lower numbers). The 40 is the viscosity at normal operating temperature (rated at 100 degrees C).

If there's an SAE prefix, that's the Society of Automotive Engineers who set standards (worldwide but emanating from USA).

2-STROKE OIL - AS YOU'VE GLEANED, YOU DON'T NEED FOR 4-STROKE, BUT FOR INFORMATION:

Necessary for 2-stroke engines because the way a 2-stroke works means that it can't have oil in a sump. This special oil is mixed with petrol (ratio advised by manufacturer) before fuelling and provides the necessary engine lubrication.

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Oil doesn't really have a shelf life as long as you keep it in a sealed container to prevent dirt contamination, it will be fine.

Over here Briggs and "Scrapiron" recommend 10W30 for their small engines.

Make sure you check the oil level after every fuel refill Mick. I usually find they use very little oil if any at all, but did get caught out once. Luckily it didn't write the engine off, but taught me to check each refueling.

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I did notice oil for sale her 0w40?

It says change oil after the first 5 hours use.

Also I have read that petrol left in the tank over winter should be drained off and replaced?

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The 10W is the 'winter' viscosity, i.e how thick/thin it is when cold (colder climates need lower numbers).

Thanks Engineer

But grass does not grow in the winter?

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Mick, modern fuels go stale over a few weeks, if it has ethylene added to it, it only lasts a short time, ethylene also attracts water. Again when fuels go stale they produce resins that will block the carby jets up.

So when you have done for the season empty the fuel tank and then start the mower up and let it run until all the fuel is used up from the carby float chamber.

I only use premium grade fuel in all my small engines these days, learned the lesson with a Stihl chainsaw, two engines damaged with standard grade fuel.

They overheat!

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#12, some two stroke engines had a sump for regular engine oil and run on straight fuel, no 2 stroke mix. A lawnmower we had in Australia was a two stroke, but we didn't have to use two stroke mix fuel as it was lubricated with 10w30 oil from the sump....Mind, it could be a pig to start sometimes..Last two stroke lawnmower we ever bought!

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Missed the last two replies, but read them when I returned to ask a question re the point John makes in #18.

Reading the manual it refers to fuel deterioration over time due to contact with the air in the tank.

You can buy fuel stabilizer, but probably more cost effective to empty the tank.

Also the petrol container will have the same problem I assume, probably better to use it in SWMBO's car and

buy fresh next year.

This raises another question, I have a vehicle taken off road 2 years ago. Its a Diesel, will this have the same problem?

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Having a diesel tractor, have spent many an hour looking into diesel fuel Mick, no it doesn't go stale, but over many months does grow algae and moulds, although I've not encountered this personally, even on 12 month old fuel.

There are stablilizers that stop the problem if you're worried though.

Another problem over here is low sulphur diesel, which adds to injector pump wear, I add a small amount of 2 stroke oil to the diesel when I fill the tank up.

Water from condensation is another problem with diesels, keep the tank full, on the tractor it has a fuel filter inside a clear plastic base, it also is a water trap.

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siddah, we've had ethanol in petrol for years over here, 10% for a long time, the missus pays more for premium as it doesn't contain the crap, she gets about 4-5mpg from none ethanol fuels, so the extra cost pays for itself in more mpg and less engine damage.

Two stroke engines run hotter on the crap, causes severe engine damage, it literally turns rubber and neoprene into a gooey mass.

We have a movement over here trying to get the crap out of our fuels, we also have several on line lists of ethanol free gas stations.

Farmers sugar and corn subsidies are partly responsible for the demise of decent gasoline over here. Hopefully we can reverse this and have every filling station ethanol free again.

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This is from a Stihl chainsaw, damage caused by overheating due to ethanol fuel

Stihlpiston01_zps76ff41b3.jpg

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