Heat Pumps & Air Conditioning?

[mick2me 3,033]

My Latest Project, Keeping the house cool on the two summer days this year.

Saving money on my heating bills on the other 363 days.

Little used in this country because people do not believe they need aircon, means you can buy the units cheaply in the UK (at the moment)

With gas prices shooting up, People will soon catch on to this.

These units can be bought for around £200 and fitted DIY in about 3 hours.

Some units claim that with 1.8kw input you get 5.1kw heating.

Too good to be true Huh?

The information I get I will post here instead of saving off on my bookmarks.

If yer not interested dont read it.

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who uses or has installed such systems.

If you are interested in saving some money by fitting one of these systems please post any info that you find here.

Ideal Requirements based on research. (will be updated regularly)

1. US 13 SEER rating or better

2. R-410a Refrigerant

3. Two output levels of heating and cooling (run at the low-output mode)

4. Variable-speed blower motor

[mick2me 3,033]

http://www.dulley.com/docs/f842.htm

New heat pumps eliminate that chilly feeling and lower utility bills"

Click here to see a descriptive illustration of several new heat pumps and a complete comfort system.

Q: Some neighbors with gas or oil heat just installed heat pumps. I have electric heat and I am thinking about installing a heat pump too. What is new in heat pumps and which are most efficient and comfortable? - Ray W.

A: Heat pumps have unfairly gotten a bad reputation over the years. From both quality and comfort standpoints, new heat pumps are a reliable and efficient source of heating and cooling. I have used heat pumps for 15 years to heat and cool my own home.

If you have an electric furnace or baseboard heat, installing a heat pump can cut your utility bills by more than 50 percent. The most efficient heat pumps produce three dollars of heat for each dollar on your utility bills.

With gas, propane and oil prices increasing, installing a heat pump, instead of just a central air-conditioner, with your old furnace may make good economic sense. During mild fall and spring weather, a new heat pump can heat your home less expensively than a gas, propane or oil furnace.

Depending on your budget, climate and comfort needs, there are many new heat pump options. Generally, the most efficient heat pumps also provide the best heating comfort and indoor air quality. Since a heat pump is also used for cooling, you will get year-round savings and comfort improvement.

The most efficient heat pumps use compressors which produce two output levels of heating and cooling. Most of the time they run at the low-output mode and switch to high output only on very cold or hot days. At the low level, they run for longer cycles so the indoor air temperature stays more constant and air quality is better.

Most two-level heat pumps use a variable-speed blower motor in the indoor air handler. When the heat pump is running at low level, the blower motor slows down. This reduces the noise level and eliminates the gust of chilly air each time it starts.

Within just the past year, efficient two-level scroll compressors have been introduced. These have few moving parts eliminating the need for pistons, valves, etc. so they operate quietly and reliably. They also use new ozone-friendly R410A refrigerant instead of older R-22 freon.

Other two-level compressor designs use either two separate small compressors or ones which reverse rotation to vary the heating and cooling capacity. These have been used for many years are a reliable technology.

If you cannot afford an expensive two-level model, select a single-level scroll compressor model which uses R410A refrigerant. This is what I use at my home. For a little extra initial cost, consider an optional variable-speed blower motor with it. Summertime cooling comfort will be particularly improved.

[mick2me 3,033]

http://www.healthgoods.com/Education/Healt.../heat_pumps.htm

A heat pump can save as much as 30% to 40% of the electricity you use for heating.

Why Buy An Energy Efficient Heat Pump?

If you use electricity to heat your home, consider installing an energy-efficient heat pump system. Heat pumps are the most efficient form of electric heating in mild and moderate climates, providing two to three times more heating than the equivalent amount of energy they consume in electricity.

Air source heat pumps are recommended for mild and moderate climate regions, where the winter temperatures usually remain above 30°F. Ground source (also known as geothermal) heat pumps are more efficient and economical to operate when compared to conventional air source heat pumps, especially in climates with similar heating and cooling loads.

About Heat Pump Efficiency

Three types of heat pumps are typically available for residences: (1) air-to-air, (2) water source, and (3) ground source. Heat pumps collect heat from the air, water, or ground outside your home and concentrate it for use inside. Heat pumps operate in reverse to cool your home by collecting the heat inside your house and effectively pumping it outside.

Heat pumps have both heating and cooling ratings-both in terms of capacity and efficiency. Capacity ratings are generally in British thermal unit (Btu) per hour or tons (one ton equals 12,000 Btu/hr). Heating efficiency for air source heat pumps is indicated by the heating season performance factor (HSPF). The HSPF tells you the ratio of the seasonal heating output in Btu's divided by the seasonal power consumption in Watt-hours. A heat pump can supply 2 to 3 times as much heat as it consumes in electricity because it moves energy from ouside to inside (or vice versa). Heat pump efficiency varies with outdoor temperature. The performance of an air source heat pump in heating mode decreases with the drop in outside air temperature. The actual seasonal efficiency (as opposed to the rating) is therefore higher in a mild climate than in a severe cold climate.

In the cooling mode, a heat pump operates exactly like a central air conditioner. The seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) is analogous to the HSPF but tells you the seasonal cooling performance.

Federal efficiency standards require that conventional heat pumps have an HSPF rating of at least 6.8 and a SEER rating of at least 10.0. The most efficient air source heat pumps have an HSPF rating between 9.0 and 10.0 and a SEER above 14 or so.

Tips for Buying a New Heat Pump

Heat pumps must be sized and installed properly to work efficiently. Heat pumps are sized for either the heating demand or cooling demand, depending on which implies the larger unit (almost always cooling). However, heat pumps do not perform well over extended periods of sub-freezing temperature and it may not be cost effective to meet all your heating needs with an air-source heat pump.

Ground source heat pumps (GSHPs) are more efficient and less noisy than conventional air-source heat pumps. Though GSHPs are more expensive to install, the dramatic improvement in efficiency can yield attractive life cycle cost savings. However, the appropriatenes of a GSHP depends on the size of your lot, the conditions of the subsoil and landscape, and sometimes the relative magnitudes of summer cooling and winter heating requirements.

Select a heat pump with a higher HSPF. For units with comparable HSPF ratings, check their steady-state rating at -8.3°C, the low temperature setting. The unit with the higher rating will be more efficient.

Select a heat pump with a demand-defrost control. This will minimize the defrost cycles thereby reducing supplementary and heat pump energy use.

Select a heat pump with an outdoor sound rating of 7.6 bels or lower. The lower the value, the less noisy the outdoor unit.

If installing a heat pump in an existing home without an existing heat pump or air conditioner, ductwork may need to be enlarged. Heat pump systems generally require larger duct sizes than other central heating systems. For proper heat pump operation, air flow should be 50 to 60 liters per second per kilowatt-hour or 400 to 500 cubic foot per minute per ton of cooling capacity.

If a heat pump is added to an electric furnace, the heat pump coil can usually be placed on the cold (upstream) side of the furnace for greatest efficiency.

Fans and compressors make noise. Locate the outdoor unit away from windows and adjacent buildings. Some units also make noise when they vibrate. You can reduce this noise by selecting quiet equipment or by mounting the unit on a noise-absorbing base.

Tips for Lowering Your Heat Pump's Energy Usage

Do not manually set back a heat pump's thermostat at night. Without a thermostat specifically designed for heat pump set-back, the electric resistance backup heat will engage when the thermostat is raised in the morning, resulting in much higher energy consumption.

Continuous indoor fan operation can degrade heat pump performance unless a high-efficiency, variable-speed fan motor is used. Operate the system on the "auto" fan setting on the thermostat.

Clean or change filters once a month or as needed, and maintain the system according to manufacturer's instructions. Filter and coil maintenance have a dramatic impact on system performance and service life. Dirty filters, coils, and fans reduce airflow through the system. Reduced airflow decreases system performance and can lead to compressor damage if it continues for an extended period.

Clean and lubricate the fan motor annually to ensure the required airflow is provided for proper operation. The fan speed should be checked at the same time. Incorrect pulley settings, loose fan belts, or incorrect motor speeds can all contribute to poor performance.

Outdoor units should be protected from high winds. High winds may reduce efficiency by causing defrost problems. However, outdoor units should not be placed in restricted areas that will result in recirculation of air over the coil.

[mick2me 3,033]

http://lowenergy.ie/documents/AirSource.pdf

[mick2me 3,033]

http://www.hometips.com/cs-protected/guides/heatpumps.html

Did you know you can extract heat from chilly outside air and use it to heat your house? This feat is performed by the magic of a heat pump--an appliance that uses refrigeration technology rather than fuel combustion to provide warmth and cooling.

Heat pumps are not new-- they've been in use for more than thirty years. But upward-spiraling energy costs and technological breakthroughs have catapulted heat pumps into position as a popular, sensible alternative to conventional heating and cooling systems. Early heat pumps were something of a disappointment-- they were noisy and prone to breakdown, and they failed to provide ample warmth on really cold days. Advances have ushered in a new generation of energy-efficient, reliable systems that are winning over homeowners and builders alike.

How do heat pumps work?

Heat pumps transfer heat from one place to another--providing both heating and cooling. They work on the fundamental principle that heat exists in air even at extremely low temperatures--down to -460 degrees F. In the winter, a heat pump extracts heat from outside air and delivers it indoors. To cool a house on hot summer days, it works in reverse, extracting heat from room air and pumping it outdoors. The process is a bit technical, but here's a brief look at how they work:

Air-source heat pumps. The most common type of heat pump is an "air-source" system. "Split" air-source systems have an outdoor unit which includes a compressor, outdoor coil, fan and reversing valve. That unit is connected with refrigerant-filled tubing to an indoor component. The indoor unit contains a fan, indoor coil and a supplemental resistance heating element. "Package" systems combine both components in a single unit that's typically placed on the roof.

Depending on whether the heat pump is in a cooling or heating mode, the refrigerant moving through the system makes the indoor coils either hot or cold. A blower draws room air in through a filter and pulls it across the indoor coil. An optional electric-resistance heating element can kick on when needed to supplement heat. As the air passes by the coils, it either gathers or gives off heat-- depending on whether the coils are hot or cold. Warm or cool air travels through ductwork and registers into your rooms.

Heat pumps give off less heat at one time than a conventional gas furnace. This means they offer a mellower type of heat, stay on longer and circulate more air throughout the house. They're controlled by the same type of thermostat used for forced-air systems.

On really cold days a heat pump must work especially hard to collect heat-- that's when the supplemental heater switches on to boost warmth.

Some heat pumps can heat your water, too. The Hydrotech 2000 Heat Pump by Carrier is a system that utilizes the warm air that a heat pump gives off to help heat your water. Adding to its performance is a built-in microprocessor that varies fan speeds and output depending on need. This greatly improves a heat pump's efficiency.

New thermal storage units even store heat and cold, collecting it during non-peak hours for peak-hour use. The Phoenix THP/3 stores both heat and cool in a large insulated water tank. It also supplements hot-water heat.

Ground-source and water-source heat pumps. Not all heat pumps extract heat from the air. Ground-source and ground-water source heat pumps circulate water mixed with antifreeze through a system of buried tubing to gather heat from the earth or ground water, which is much more consistent in temperature than air. Below-ground temperatures are normally warmer than outside air in the winter and cooler than the air in summer.

The ground-source system employs a closed loop of tubing that is buried below the frost line; the water-antifreeze mixture circulates through the tubing, gathering heat from the earth. A ground-water system typically involves pumping water from one well, transferring its heat to your house, then returning the water to another well.

WaterFurnace, from WaterFurnace International can be set up either as a ground-source, closed system or an open-loop ground-water system. It uses half the electricity of ordinary heat pumps. Though the pump is about the same price as most heat pumps, the excavation and the ground loop of piping can be quite expensive-- $2000 or more.

Is a heat pump right for your home?

Whether or not a heat pump will save you money on energy bills depends on a number of factors, including the type of fuel prevalent in your area, your climate, and the amount of insulation and other energy-efficient features built into your home.

According to Richard Jarvis, Technical Specialist with the National Appropriate Technology Assistance Service (NATAS), "If you have natural gas available, it probably makes sense for you to use it for heating and cooling with a conventional air-conditioning system." Natural gas is a more efficient, less expensive fuel than electricity, needed for heat pumps.

But in the Northeast or other regions where fuel-oil or resistance-electrical heat is more the norm, a heat pump can realize substantial savings. Although electrical-resistance heating is much less expensive to install than a heat pump, the heat pump can deliver 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times more heat with the same amount of energy, depending on climate, the house, and the particular system.

Heat pumps are most effective at saving energy when in the heating mode. The problem with an air-source heat pump in a cold climate, however, is that your household needs more heat as the temperature outside goes down-- but the heat pump works less efficiently at lower outdoor temperatures. Below a temperature known as the "balance point," normally from 30 to 45 degrees F, supplementary heat is required--and that means expensive electrical-resistance heating kicks in.

The right way to decide the most appropriate form of heating and cooling for your home is to do an economic analysis, based on a system's purchase cost and efficiency, the cost of your fuel and your home's heating/cooling load requirements. For more information about appropriate fuels, check out the Department of Energy's fact sheet, "Comparing Energy Sources," at the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network (EREN) on the web.

Energy efficiency

All heating and cooling appliances carry a federal "Energyguide" label that rates a unit's energy efficiency for both cooling and heating modes. These ratings are based on a relative scale; they let you know how a particular model compares to other low- and high-efficiency models.

Manufacturers commonly use two indexes for measuring-- Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER) for cooling and Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) for heating. Both are arrived at through sophisticated testing and reflect performance over an entire season.

Government regulations now require that all newly-manufactured models have a cooling SEER of at least 10.0 and a heating HSPF of 6.85. These regulations do not guarantee that a new unit you buy will comply; many dealers still have older, less-efficient models in inventory.

Carrier's Infinity 2000 rates high marks with an SEER of 15.5 compared to high-efficiency models at 13.05 and low-efficiency models at 7.25. Trane's high-efficiency, variable-capacity unit tops the industry with an SEER of 16.9.

In the heating mode, Carrier's HSPF of 10. is very high compared to low-efficiency models at 5.3 and high-efficiency models at 8.9.

Buyers' options

Most heat pump manufacturers make products in several sizes, measured by the amount of air they move. Units are designated by "tons"-- a measurement that originally referred to the amount of ice needed to cool an equivalent amount of air. Typical home sizes range from 1 1/2- to 5-ton capacity.

Though sizing a system should be handled by a professional, Eric Eilar of Air Conditioning Exchange in Glendale, California says, "You can get a rough idea of size by figuring about 400 square feet of living space per ton in older houses; a 1600-square foot house would normally require about a 4-ton system. Newer houses with double-paned windows and more insulation can get by with smaller systems."

Prices for materials run from just under $2000 for small, low efficiency models to top-of-the-line, high-efficiency units at $7500. As Eilar points out, "Price goes up dramatically when you get into the high-efficiency models."

The most efficient heat pumps have variable-capacity controls. Rather than running the system at full-capacity all of the time, these controls coordinate the compressor and blower to adjust to your house's heating/cooling load requirements. Because they seldom run at full speed, they're quieter and they save you money over the long haul.

Zoned Heating & Cooling

Zoned heating and cooling is one of the hottest new concepts in efficient energy usage. With a zoned system, you can independently control the air flow sent to various rooms or zones in you home, directing heating or cooling where you want it at various times of the day. To make this possible, a system needs a special, multi-zone programmable thermostat and a few motorized dampers. For best results, the air handler's output should be variable. In fact, it's best if it can be controlled over an infinite range of speeds, automatically adjusting the amount of heating or cooling delivered throughout the house according to the need.

Do You Really Need a New Heat Pump?

A new heat pump can save you money in the long run. But does your furnace or heat pump need replacement? Do you want a new heat pump because your present one isn't heating or cooling properly or is making too much noise? You may find that simple repairs are all that's needed. If you're considering a new heating appliance to eliminate problems with an older one, first read through these common problems and their fixes --this information just might save you a bundle.

Heat Pump Maintenance

According to the DOE, regular maintenance is the key to an efficient heating system. Dirty filters, clogged burner ports and improper settings can drastically reduce furnace efficiency. They recommend a yearly inspection by a qualified service technician and replacing or cleaning filters on a monthly basis. A permanent air screen or electronic air filter should be cleaned according to manufacturer's recommendations. Properly maintaining your heating system-- whether it's a conventional system or a high-efficiency one-- is the best way to ensure years of problem-free, economical, comfortable heating.

Most heating systems operate reliably for a long time if they are well-maintained. Before you call a furnace technician for a repair or roll up your sleeves to do the work yourself, call your utility or check their website--in many areas, the utility company will send a technician to your home to check minor furnace problems for free.

If you smell gas in your home or near your furnace, particularly if the odor is strong, immediately evacuate the house, leave the door open, and call your gas utility or the fire department from your neighbor's house or a cell phone. (Don't use the phone in the house or turn light switches off or on.)

Sometimes a furnace may not seem to be generating any heat. In this situation, check the master switch and circuit breaker or fuse. The electrical system may have overloaded. If you don't find a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, your thermostat may be faulty.

Filter Care

Clean or replace a disposable furnace filter periodically during the winter--check the filter monthly. Brush and vacuum the heat exchanger surfaces every year, if recommended by your owner's manual. Before the heating season, clean the blower blades and seal any air leaks in ducts with several wraps of duct tape.

A little maintenance goes a long way toward keeping your forced-air equipment working properly. Start by cleaning or replacing the filter. With forced-air furnace systems, air returning to the furnace's blower first passes through an air filter designed to catch dust and debris and help clean the air before it's recycled to your home.

A good furnace filter can help reduce allergens but isn't designed to significantly improve air quality in your home. For that, you'll need a special air filter (talk to a heating specialist about this).

When typical filters become clogged with debris, they cut down on a furnace's efficiency and, over time, can cause parts to wear out faster. Change filters quarterly or sooner if they look dirty. Pleated fabric filters are a good, inexpensive choice for reducing dust and allergens.

Here's how to change a replaceable filter:

1) Turn off the power to the unit.

2) Look for the door or panel that conceals the blower; sometimes this is marked "Filter." Lift this door or panel off of its holding hooks or unscrew its retaining screws to remove it.

3) Standard filters are mounted next to or under the blower motor. Slide the filter out along its tracks. Check to see whether it is a disposable filter or intended to be cleaned and replaced--this should be marked on the filter's edge, along with directions for cleaning if applicable. If it's a disposable filter, its size will probably be printed on the frame's edge also. Make a note of its size.

4) Buy a replacement and slide it back into place, noting that arrows stamped on the side indicate the proper direction of airflow; be sure you face these in the proper direction.

Motor Care

Some fan motors and fans need oiling; some have sealed bearings. If recommended by your maintenance manual, oil the bearings according to the manufacturer's directions.

If the motor runs but the blower doesn't move air, the belt that connects the two probably has broken. Replacing it is an easy fix. First, turn off all power to the unit and turn off the gas at the gas valve that serves the furnace. Remove the door on the front of the furnace cabinet to give you access to the blower. (It may be on a slide-out drawer or the blower pulley and motor will be easily accessible.) Check the number stamped on the belt and get an exact replacement from a home center or heating supply outlet.

You can usually slip the belt on the motor's (smaller) pulley first, then start it on the blower pulley. Rotate the blower pulley by hand, holding the belt in place but keeping your fingers from being caught between the belt and the pulley. The belt should slip right into place. If it seems to be too tight or difficult using this method, it may be necessary to adjust the motor mount to provide more slack. Then re-tighten the tension once the belt is in place. Check the manufacturer's specifications for proper tension--in most cases, the belt should deflect about an inch when you press down on it.

[mick2me 3,033]

http://www.heatpumpnet.org.uk/applications_intro.asp

Heat Pump Technology Applications

Heat pumps can save money and lessen environmental impact for heating and cooling systems when applied appropriately. Their applications are diverse, covering office air conditioning, domestic heating and industrial processes.

Heat Pumps in Commercial Buildings

About 96% of all heat pumps sold in the UK are for non-domestic buildings - over 60,000 units in 1996 alone. Sports centres, particularly those having swimming pools, are ideal candidates, where the heat pump can provide both heating and dehumidification. Retail outlets and office buildings where there is a need for simultaneous heating in one area and cooling in another can benefit from substantial energy cost savings. Unfortunately, many users with reversible heat pumps (i.e. capable of Winter heating and Summer cooling) only use them for cooling. So in winter they pay to run a boiler, when the heat pump could meet some or all of the demand - a missed opportunity to save money and environmental impact.

The increased use of 'low energy' building design, natural ventilation and/or passive cooling will affect the commercial market: Smaller heating/cooling plant needs and the reduced cost of smaller heat pump installations may accelerate the take-up of reversible units in these situations.

See

GIL024 All Electric Air-conditioned Offices uses Heat Pump Technology.

Heat Pumps in Industry

Industrial heat pumps are used to recover or make best use of heat in manufacturing processes or in public utilities such as energy generation & distribution. They vary enormously in both size and concept, but most are specially designed for the application. In the UK the best seller is the dehumidifier/dryer for batch drying ovens, e.g. for textiles or wood, where duties of a few kW are typical. In Japan, Sweden and the Netherlands, multi-MW heat transformers operating on the absorption cycle are used for waste heat recovery in petrochemical and steel works.

While the potential for industrial heat pumps in the UK is substantial and largely un-exploited, success in the food and drink sector with mechanical vapour recompression (MVR) systems continues, and larger units could be cost-effective in chemical distillation plant.

See

GIL068 Industrial heat pumps. Benefits and experience in the chemicals, food and drink, ceramics and other sectors.

and

GPCS268 Rapid Drying with a Heat Pump Dehumidification System.

Domestic Heat Pumps

Heat pumps are a feature of many homes in, for example, Switzerland, Norway and the Netherlands, but not many systems have been installed in the UK.

The UK market is strongly influenced by first cost for heating systems, and gas heating is fairly cheap, widely available and fairly clean. Apart from some purpose-built demonstration houses, domestic heat pumps in the UK tend to be confined to rural areas without gas supplies. In these areas oil is the main alternative which is currently very economical. Domestic heating only heat pumps can compete environmentally and economically with gas heating. Reversible heat pumps, which can also provide summer cooling, are not as efficient as those designed for heating only and are likely to result in higher heating bills and overall greater environmental impact compared to other fuels. The output of currently available domestic heat pumps is limited to approximately 5 kW so they are best suited to small or very well insulated properties.

[mick2me 3,033]

Heat Pumps in the UK Report

13 SEER requirements

The Journey To 13 SEER

Higher Efficiency Is Just Around The Corner.

Air conditioners and heat pumps manufactured after Jan. 23, 2006, must meet a minimum efficiency standard of 13 SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio). Now that there are just over four months until the industry officially switches from a minimum efficiency standard of 10 SEER to the new minimum of 13 SEER, let’s take a moment to look back at how the industry reached this juncture and what contractors, manufacturers, distributors, and dealers need to do from this point forward.

Since 1992, the minimums for split systems and packaged equipment have been 10 SEER for central air conditioners and heat pumps, plus 6.8 HSPF for heat pumps. When the legislative fighting over numbers ended and the dust settled this time around, we were left with the new 13 SEER standard — and, once again, a few hurdles to jump.

http://www.achrnews.com/CDA/ArticleInforma...,157500,00.html

When installing equipment using R410A refrigerant, there are a number of standards that must be met:

An ester oil is used for R410A (as with R407c)

It’s important to work with absolute cleanliness

Brazing must be done with the use of Nitrogen (OFN)

The system must be evacuated thoroughly (triple evacuation)

A strength test in accordance with BS EN378 must be carried out

The system must always be charged in the liquid phase

[Caz 25]

Seems like forever that Australia & America have had reverse cycle air conditioning/heating & I am alway amazed how the UK copes in their stifling hot days,I know you don't have that many swelterers,but they work very well in the winter too & are economical to boot.Can't tell you how many times I have tried to open my mum's windows when I stay there & they are nailed shut!! & on a hot day it's shocking. Two hundred quid sounds cheap Mick, you should buy a heap of them & sell them when the rest Nottm catches up with the technology.

[Ayupmeducks 1,730]

They are fairly common around these parts Mick, to be honest, I wasn't too impressed by them. Once the temperature drops below freezing, one has to provide heating.

They only work as long as there is some heat in the outside air, and with our winters, nights would be pretty cold without extra heating from another source!

One being advertised by our utility co-ops is ground source heat and cooling, cheap once installed and always warm in winter and cool in summer. BUT it does require supplimental heat and cooling. It relies on pipework buried a few feetin the ground and picks up heat from the ground, which is always there.

From what I have read on it, the temps are around 55 to 60F, not a lot, but can halve heat costs in winter and reduce cooling costs in summer.

I'm a woodfire stalwart myself, we have a woodstove, and it keeps us toasty warm all winter at only the cost of chainsaw fuel and bar oil!

Summer comes the fans.