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I have a hard plastic pipe in my dishwasher that I need to repair.

I tried Araldite and plastic model glue, they both just peel off this item?

Anybody got any idea what I can use to repair it, that will stand up to hot water?

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If it's crack in a staight pipe, put 2 jubille clips over layers of kitchen foil wrapped around the pipe, also theres a fixative sealer you can use available from plumbers merchants, sets even in the wet FERNOX LS-X, or Hydrolite RED it's gasket seal.

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PVC Pipe cement, but first clean it with PVC pipe cleaner primer. Split pipes are hard to repair though, best is replaced.

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Te pipe is kinda oval in shape with two flat sides.

Like a round pipe that has been put in a vice.

The crack spirals 2/3 round it like a helter skelter.

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There are plastic welding kits available on the market, BUT, you do have to first find out what type of plastic the damaged pipe is made of, bit like you cannot weld stainless with standard steel rods, same goes with plastic.

Give my first post a try, if the pipe is PVC, the primer/cleaner will start the process, and the PVC cement should fuse the two parts together, can't guarantee for how long though..

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Is there anything you could replace the oval pipe with??

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Not as far as I can see.

It is a certain shape,

L shaped picks up water from an outlet at the bottom of the machine runs up the back

and holds a water socket that the top spray fits into.

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If you heat it with a soldering iron does it melt then it is a thermoplastic

Then you can use a glue gun

or this like i have

http://www.harborfre...ment-96712.html

I do a lot of plastic welding as you can see there are quite a few

There is also some tape that welds itself together by 3m works on hot water That might be the best idea i got a bunch of it at the Dollar store

I think you might be able to get it at a Automotive store

Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) Acrylic (PMMA) 130–140 °C Celluloid Cellulose acetate Cyclic Olefin Copolymer (COC) Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate (EVA) Ethylene vinyl alcohol (EVOH) Fluoroplastics (PTFE, alongside with FEP, PFA, CTFE, ECTFE, ETFE) Ionomers Kydex, a trademarked acrylic/PVC alloy Liquid Crystal Polymer (LCP) Polyoxymethylene (POM or Acetal) 175°C Polyacrylates (Acrylic) Polyacrylonitrile (PAN or Acrylonitrile) Polyamide (PA or Nylon) Polyamide-imide (PAI) Polyaryletherketone (PAEK or Ketone) Polybutadiene (PBD) Polybutylene (PB) Polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) 225°C 40°C Polycaprolactone (PCL) 62 °C Polychlorotrifluoroethylene (PCTFE) Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) 255 °C 75 °C Polycyclohexylene dimethylene terephthalate (PCT) Polycarbonate (PC) 267 °C Polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) 145| Polyketone (PK) Polyester 260 C 75 C Polyethylene (PE) 105–130 °C -127 °C Polyetheretherketone (PEEK) 343 °C 143 °C Polyetherketoneketone (PEKK) Polyetherimide (PEI) Polyethersulfone (PES)- see Polysulfone Chlorinated Polyethylene (CPE) Polyimide (PI) Polylactic acid (PLA) 50–80 °C Polymethylpentene (PMP) Polyphenylene oxide (PPO) Polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) Polyphthalamide (PPA) Polypropylene (PP) 160 °C Polystyrene (PS) 240 °C Polysulfone (PSU) Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) Polyurethane (PU) Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) 32 °C Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) 80 °C Polyvinylidene chloride (PVDC) 185 °C 40 °C Styrene-acrylonitrile (SAN) 115|

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Thanks Ray for the part supplier

DG

I will check with some hot metal heated on the Gas and let you know.

I though Araldite (epoxy) would bond anything? Perhaps I need to use steel wool first.

I never knew there were so many plastics.

I remember Big Geoff repairing one of the cylinder heads on Trevethick's Launch in 1970.

Strangely as I thought of it, I wondered if that boat is still afloat somewhere?

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Epoxy resin doesn't seem to be the same these days Mick, especially that five minute crap, it always seems to stay tacky to the touch. The old stuff never felt tacky, we used the old two part resin to repair high voltage resin insulators, I would dare use the five minute stuff on that gear, would break down in seconds.

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I did find that in this hot weather it has gone off within a couple of minute.

Too quick.But did not bond to the surface. I have only just wire wooled the surface and placed a layer of epoxy on part of the crack.

Its in the sun at the moment.

I put the two tubes in the freezer to cool them down.

I will then have more time to mix it before it goes off, before placing in the sun to set?

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Started by looking good setting quickly and not sticky to the touch.

But even roughening the surface to give a 'key' epoxy still peels off easily.

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Just not as good as the original two part epoxy Mick. Hate the five minute crap...

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http://www.eclecticp...om/plumbing.htm

This stuff is what i stick a filter to the bottom of my boilout tank

But i use the automotive one i think its pretty much the same just more available

or this that you can get in the Uk

Sets in 10 secs

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Q-Bond-QB2-Strong-Adhesive-Repair/dp/B002XF4S6C

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Try 'Green stuff' two part plastic epoxy, yellow and blue strips,kneed it together.

Bonds like 'sh-- to an army blanket'.

Plumbers merchant carries the product.

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What's it made of??? GOLD??...LOL

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Pre internet days, I was stuck with electronics suppliers and had to put up with chips costing an arm and a leg, now I can shop around and get those chips for a couple of bucks. In fact I sometimes wonder how the manufacturers can make a profit on them!!

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